Il Padrino

Living in the religious capital of the western world (at least for Christianity) has been a huge change for a young woman coming from a largely atheist country. I'm no stranger to religion, having been raised in a practicing Protestant extended family, however I would define myself more as agnostic than anything else. It's hard to claim that life in the world as we know it is anything short of a miracle, but Christianity has become so far removed from what Jesus tried to preach that it's difficult for me to relate to on many levels. Having said that I truly think that every person is entitled to their own opinions and beliefs, as long as they don't try to force them upon me. Something I saw on facebook I think sums it up perfectly: 'Religion is like a penis. It's fine to have one, it's fine to be proud of it. Just don't bring it out in public and don't try to shove it down my child's throat.' I think in this case that mutual respect is integral.

It's so strange to be surrounded by religion every day. Seeing Catholic priests and nuns running around the city and living as normal people out of their natural habitat (haha like habit...) is at times surreal. The other day we went out for lunch and their was a priest with his collar unbuttoned talking on his cell phone. I realize it's totally naive to think that these people don't have lives outside their jobs, but as I mentioned before it's new for me and still sometimes makes me chuckle. Although I've never had the chance to see il Padrino himself (the pope, a joke since this translates to the godfather) I think it would be very interesting to watch one of the services in St. Peters. One day when waking up in time doesn't seem like such a chore.

All of these things aside, the majority of the most incredible art in the world was commissioned by the church and Rome is filled with art and architecture because of religious commissions so I am at least thankful for that.

Today a friend and I did a guided tour of the Vatican Gallery. As the second time I've had a tour of the gallery, and someone with a background in art, I would highly suggest hiring a guide. A lot of the small details are overlooked while going through on your own, and it can at times be quite overwhelming. Having the history and important details pointed out to you, and being able to ask questions makes a huge difference. Having said that, it is quite expensive. Because my friend has connections we paid 30 euros each for our 4 hour tour (with my university we spent 6 hours and didn't even see the whole gallery). The couple we were with paid 45 each. We were also lucky because it's the off season and their weren't that many large groups (ours was only 4.) I've been in the summer as well and it's a completely different experience. The galleries are FILLED and you shuffle through, lucky to catch a glimpse while being pushed through by the thousands flocking through behind you (an estimated 20 000 a day.) Today I was lucky enough to get up close and personal with many of the pieces. The Sistine Chapel is of course a must see (literally, you must see it to leave the gallery, it's before the exit) for many people, and is still in use by the clergy. You're not allowed to speak, or take photos, or show your shoulders (although cleavage of young girls is usually overlooked by the mostly male guards.) There are small patches that are left uncleaned on the ceiling to illustrate the difference between before and after. Apparently there are lectures in the Vatican on plans of what they're going to restore, and the process. I must at one point attend. I find this fascinating, and a very important aspect of preserving these masterpieces, a point punctuated by the difference between the dark marks and the rest of the frescoes.

Our guide was a huge history buff, she told us that in the 6 years she's been working as a guide she even comes to the Vatican on her days off. She was able to point out some of the graffiti etched in the walls of the Raphael rooms from when the Vatican was invaded by Protestant reformers in the 16th century. In her spare time she deciphered the meaning. These are the kind of things you miss on your own, and being the nerd that I am I appreciate these little details.

Without going into too much tedious detail, the gallery is filled with works from masters of the Renaissance. For me, the Vatican Gallery and St. Peter's Basillica are two of the highlights of the city. There's even a fairly large modern collection in the Borgais rooms (which have a chilling history, Lucrecia's biography is next on my list of must reads.)

Something that I will never understand is how such a conservative religion can so easily sell its soul (pun intended.) You're not allowed to wear shorts, skirts shorter than your knees, or expose your shoulders, yet you can buy a lollipop with the pope's face on it. Or for that matter a pope bobble head. Or pope on a rope soap (guess what I would wash with it...) Vatican City is like Disney Land for Catholics. It's grotesque and perfect and I love every minute of it (burqas aside.)

Apollo Belvedere 

Bacchus: the god closest to my heart.

Nero's bath, actual use mixing wine for parties. Also made of the most expensive marble in the world which no longer exists in nature. The Vatican owns the vast majority. 

Close up from a floor to ceiling tapestry from the late 16th century. It's from the masacre of the innocents, yes he is killing that baby with a spike. 

Roma! Gallery of maps.

Tile floor detailing in one of the Raphael rooms. One of the many mosaics covering the floors of the vast galleries, this one dates to the Renaissance, although some are from ancient Rome. 

In front of the original plan for St. Peter's Basillica. The finished product is quite different.

The man himself. 

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